The last of the series now live on YouTube at Art N a Box
The second in the series is now published on YouTube HERE
I often get asked How-to” questions from my woodworking friends and acquaintances. So I thought I would try to put together some information to share. This is my first attempt, so take it with that understanding in mind. If you find it useful, let me know as I am planning on continuing. If you have suggestions or questions, let me know as well. My objective is not to tell you THE way, but just one of MY ways that might come in handy. If you’re interested, CLICK HERE to access the video on YouTube.
As usual, Doug Stowe comes up with simple yet elegant solutions for box makers. His hinge mortising jig is just one of many.
For years I had a full miter on box drawer fronts. The objective was to have a relatively seamless transition from front to box side. The downside, was that it was so easy to damage that sharp edge, and if damaged, next to impossible to repair. So now I have modified the fit between drawer and side, but putting an approximately 1/8″ x 1/8″ flat on the drawer ends. I first create the flat on the box side, using a mortising bit. Need to sneak up on it as any incursion on the box body above or below the drawer will show in the finished piece. I tend to clean out the last 1/32″ or so with a chisel. The drawer profile is done with a modified Whiteside chamfer bit that has the bearing removed. (I had this modification done by Whiteside). I sneak up on the final depth of cut to ensure a good fit. The finished edge is not very noticeable and the drawer is no longer subject to edge damage.
Had a great time as a featured artist on INSP TV’s Handcrafted America program. It first aired April of 2016, but has been repeated periodically. I believe it is now in its third season and a great program for those interested in things made by talented artists. Info on the program and updates to schedules available here
I have been asked a few times about making the legs that I use on a few of my boxes. Here is a brief description of the process along with a link to an attachment with a few dimensions and templates.
I start with a length or two of 7/8″ square stock. 16″ will yield 4 legs (assuming no “oops”). With a flat top blade in the table saw, I set the fence to between 3/16″ and 1/4″ from the blade, and set the blade height the same. Run a test piece or 2 until you can make two passes over the blade to result in a right angled piece with a clean inside corner. (see the linked drawing).
Now cut the piece into the finished length for each leg.
Next, mark, on the inside of the piece, the widest point of the leg, also shown on the template. Then connect the top and bottom inside of the side, to the wide point. (Shown in red on the linked drawing). Using a handsaw, bandsaw or disk sander, cut away the excess to create the tapered sides.
Finally, I take each leg to the spindle sander, (could also do with the scroll saw or coping saw), and create the curved top section of each side as shown on the linked drawing with the dotted line.
Hope this is understandable!