Sat in on a class at the Milwaukee Woodworking Show presented by Marc Adams. He showed a number of veneering techniques, including Louis cubes, so I had to give it a try. Not perfect, but lots of fun. Something he recommended, which I have not yet tried, is to replace regular veneer tape for the face surface, with ShurTape CP-28. Supposedly, it is “tender” enough to withstand the pressure of the glue up process and will remove easily with out leaving a residue. This would eliminate introducing water into a veneer assembly which can be problematic. He did say that it was hard to find in small quantities. I called the manufacturer, and they were of little help. Then I found it, where else, on Amazon. So I will be trying that on my next project and see how it works.
Many jewelry boxes have multiple levels….incorporating one or more trays or other inserts. Often these are supported by additional pieces glued into the box sides to provide a rail, or rail pieces inserted into dados along the sides. I never liked those approaches for many reasons. If the box is made of 3/4″ stock, then at typical dimensions, it is way too “bulky” at the joint between the top and bottom of the box. So then one must plane down the stock, but then turn around and add more in to create the rails. Instead, I cut profiles into the box sides which creates integral rails, thins out the stock for better esthetics at the joint, and results is a very solid construction. In the typical box I shoot for a stock thickness at the top-bottom joint of between 1/2″ and 5/8″ depending upon the overall size of the box. The profiled rails are approximately 1/8″ each. If you are interested in some representative dimensions for profiles on different types of boxes, check the downloadable pdf files in the download section of this blog.
Forget the stackable brass bars, forget the digital gauges with batteries that always die at the wrong time, this little tool that has been around for over 20 years, runs circles around them all! I have two in my shop, and one in fact is at least 15 years old. Nothing to wear out, no batteries to die. I am still finding new ways to use them as well. Check it out. Here’s a brief write up with pics that I did on this great tool.
Sometimes it can’t be avoided…..you need to add ring bars, those fabric covered foam strips between which rings are wedged into a jewelry box. Wouldn’t it be nice if you could use the same high quality fabric, in the same color as you used for the rest of the box lining? I’ve tried many techniques I’ve seen illustrated in the past, and none really worked well. So I came up with my own. Still not fun, but the end result delivers on what I need. If you are interested in checking it out, I’ve put together an illustrated pdf guide here. Making ring bars. Check it out.
Talk about going from elated to deflated. This box was a custom order that really worked out well….until I shipped it! It didn’t survive the trip. I posted the box on Lumberjocks when it was done, and it made the most viewed and commented on for that day. Great feedback, so the email from my customer telling me what it looked like when he opened the box was a real let down to say the least.
The customer returned the “pieces” of the original box. Basically, the case was worthless, but the 4 drawers were still ok, as was the zebrawood panel in the lid. Should I try? Are you kidding? But I did. Whereas one always wants to build the case first, then fit the drawers, I had to do the exact opposite. Compounding the challenge was the fact that due to an math error, the runners for the drawers on the original were not evenly spaced, so each drawer had a dado for the runner in a different location on the sides. MADE IT! It all went together and fit! If I had been off anything more than about a 32nd of an inch, it would have been firewood. Great feeling but I don’t really want to do it again.
This piece just received a “Best of Show” award at the Museum of Wisconsin Art’s Members Show. The primary wood is Tiger Maple and the accent wood is Wenge.